Month 9 | Vietri sul Mare, Italy
Where this month found me
This past month could simply be described as comfortable. I feel like there’s more connection and an undeniable sense of community that has been slowly building. And we have people we can call when we’re in need and conversations that dive deeper than surface-level… that’s not something you find immediately.
And while Vietri feels more like home than ever, we’re also making plans for a six-month return to Toronto. It’s a weird feeling — one I can’t quite put into words — of missing this place that we haven’t left yet. Why not stay? It’s not one big reason, but a series of smaller ones that make us sure it’s not our forever home. With that said, you’d best believe we’ll be back for visits in the future.
If you’re curious about the practical side of things, I kept track of our monthly expenses in case you’re considering a similar move!
The admin & logistics chapter
At long last, we FINALLY had our permesso di soggiorno appointments! If you’re new here, let me explain. The permesso is Italy’s residency permit, and it took nearly nine months to get our appointment. Ask anyone who’s moved to Italy, and they will agree: this process is not for the faint of heart. The bureaucracy here should be studied for its rigid policies, yet equally laid-back attitude.
One of our friends volunteered to accompany us to our appointment to help navigate the process and translate all the details… thank god she did. As it turned out, no one in the office seemed to have any idea what the Vacanza Lavoro (working holiday) visa is, which only added to the constantly shifting expectations. That inconsistency has definitely been the most frustrating part. For example, you are provided with a list of what you are required to bring to your appointment, but on the day of — depending on who is working the counter — those requirements can (and likely will) change or be added to on a whim.
In our case the random addition we were asked to provide was a document proving our landlord registered the property as a rental to confirm he is paying his taxes… what that has to do with us and our residency, I couldn’t tell you. Especially nine months into our stay. Apparently, it’s very common for landlords to skip this procedure, so we were lucky everything was filed properly!
After tracking down that form, we returned to the questura only to be told that we would have to return at a later date because our applications had been entered incorrectly in the system by someone. We were told that there was “absolutely no way” we could return the next day to finalize everything. That is, until we explained Tyson would be back in Canada for a month… Suddenly, it was an urgent matter, and the next day would be fine. Like I said: inconsistency.
Allora, now all that’s left is waiting on the notification that says our card is ready to be picked up… just in time for us to move home!
Side quests
We hopped a flight down to Palermo, Sicily, for two nights after finding some great deals — €30 round-trip and €105 for accommodation with breakfast included. My Canadian brain can hardly fathom!
But aside from some great deals, Palermo was wonderful. Visiting places in the off-season, you always run the risk of less-than-ideal weather and a lot of places being closed, but we lucked out. Not only was the historic centre fully alive, but we were also treated to sunny blue skies. And let me tell you, the food here was incredible. Tys and I tried so many arancine in such a short amount of time, and I regret none of them!
People & connection
There’s a moment when you’re making new friends where things suddenly shift from surface-level conversation to forming deeper connections — that’s what this month was. From our friend who volunteered to help us with navigating our permesso appointments, to the ones who have made sure I’m not going stir-crazy on my own while Tys is back in Canada for the majority of February, thank you all for giving us a sense of community here.
On my bookshelf
Personal Read: Project Hail Mary, Andy Weir | 5/5
Wow. I don’t know exactly what it was about this book that struck me, but I have no notes.
If you’ve ever looked up at a starry sky, wondered what was out there, and felt awe at the possibilities, this book is for you. To set the scene, the Sun is dying, there is other life out there, and we desperately need answers. It is a beautiful story of camaraderie and perseverance in the face of what feels impossible.
I laughed, I cried, and Rocky is the best that Eridians have to offer.
Small joys
The weather has been extremely rainy and overcast — which I’ve been told is far from the norm — but just when you think the seasonal depression might rear its head, we have been treated to a beautiful, sunny and warm day. After 30 years of winters in Canada, with months on end of grey skies, I have loved the sunny, 17°C days… no matter how sporadic they may be.
I also fully tuned into the Olympics this year and I have been loving every second of it. I speed skated for nine years, and the nostalgic pride I’m feeling every time I watch a race is unreal. I cried watching Piper and Paul (Canadian ice dancers), I cheered when we finally won a gold, and I’ve been in awe seeing the Big Air competitors fling themselves into the air without fear.
The hard parts
Not to sound like a broken record, but let me say it one more time: permesso di soggiorno. Specifically, the subjectivity of something that should be objective. If the official site says what the required documents are, there shouldn’t be surprise additions at the whim of the office worker??
On a more personal note though, after 8.5 months at spending practically all of our time together, Tys being away has obviously been an adjustment. Don’t get me wrong, a little alone time was nice, and long overdue if we’re being honest (I love you, Tys). But after nearly three weeks apart, I really miss having my best friend around, and I’m excited for him to be back this week!
Looking ahead
We’re hoping to squeeze in a couple more adventures before we pack up and head back to Toronto… possible locations include Slovenia, Slovakia, and Hungary. If you have any recommendations, send them my way.
