Lucca, Italy Travel Guide: What to Do, Eat & See
Visited: October 2022Welcome to Lucca, a beautiful city tucked into the Tuscan countryside, known for its old town and well-preserved Renaissance walls. Within the walls, Lucca is incredibly walkable — you can easily cross the old town in under half an hour — and you will undoubtedly want to wander down every side street you pass.
For those of you looking for a Tuscan stop to add to your dream Italian trip, Lucca is the perfect place for a quick day trip or a slow couple of nights.
View from Torre Guinigi
Lucca at a Glance
Vibe: Relaxed, charming, and walkable
Don’t Miss: The City Walls , Piazza dell’Anfiteatro
Best Time to Visit: Spring or Fall for milder temps and fewer crowds
Getting There: Take the train, the station is only a 5-minute walk from the old town walls and it’s easily accessible with routes running through Florence and Pisa.
How Long to Stay: See the highlights in 4-5 hours, or stay a couple of nights and enjoy the evenings in the walled city.
What to Do
Climb a Tower
Torre Guinigi
This tower looms tall over the rest of the city, standing at 45 metres (147.6 ft.), and was once home to a wealthy silk merchant who ruled Lucca. You’ll recognize it instantly when you see it for the trees growing on its roof.
Up to a climb? Pay the admission fee, and make your way up the narrow 230 steps to the top.
Torre delle Ore*
If you’d prefer to get a view of Torre Guinigi instead of from it, consider climbing the clock tower instead. This is the tallest of over 100 towers built in the city throughout its history, standing at 50 metres (164 ft.). At the top of the 207 stairs, you can see the clock mechanisms and take in the views below.
Admission fees to both towers are pretty similar so it really just comes down to what you prefer.
Walk the City Walls
Originally built for defence, Lucca’s walls are now a 4 kilometre (2.5 mi.) tree-lined loop path used for walking, running, and biking. From the top you can look in at the historic old town, or look beyond to the Tuscan countryside.
Feeling adventurous? Venture below the walls in the passageways that run beneath. There was a very short section accessible for free when I was there in 2022, but this Above and Below the Walls* tour brings you further into the tunnels. I didn’t go beneath personally, but in the future I definitely would if I return.
Walking on Lucca’s walls
Piazzas to Seek Out
Piazza Napoleone
Named after Napoleon’s sister who was the leader of Lucca’s principality for a decade in the 1800s. The square has restaurants lining it which are great for grabbing a bite or aperitivo while you people watch.
If historic architecture piques your interest, seek out the glass blocks throughout the piazza. The blocks allow you to glimpse the remains of demolished building foundations from the Napoleonic era below.
Piazza dell’Anfiteatro
The square’s unique ovular shape remains from the old Roman amphitheatre which used to be there. Today you will find street performers, small markets, shops, and plenty of cafes and restaurants to choose from.
We grabbed dinner here after walking through it a few hours earlier during the day. The vibes here were great at both times, but lit up in the evening was my favourite.
Piazza San Martino
Located in front of Cattedrale di San Martino, Lucca’s duomo, this piazza hosts a lot of local events. Be sure to walk through and see if anything is happening. If you’re in town on the third weekend of the month, check out the antiques market that the square hosts that Saturday or Sunday (weather permitting). There’s tons to see!
Churches to Visit
Cattedrale di San Martino and the piazza of the same name
Cattedrale di San Martino
The main church of Lucca, Cattedrale di San Martino is known for its beautiful, high vaulted ceilings and is the seat of the Archbishop of Lucca. There is an entrance fee and some entry tickets include access to the bell tower. We chose to skip paying to enter here and climbed Torre Guinigi instead.
Basilica San Frediano facade
Chiesa San Michele in Foro
Take in the front facade of this church and notice the statue of the Archangel Michael. People claim two things about this statue. The first, on bright days some notice a green shimmer, it’s thought that there might be an emerald hidden somewhere (despite one never being found). Second, they say the wings will move on windy days, making it look as though he is flapping them. Take a look as you walk by and see if you notice anything special!
Basilica San Frediano
Another beautiful facade, featuring an intricate mosaic with gold detailing, San Frediano is worth adding to your route while you’re walking the streets of Lucca. Inside you will find the mummified body of Saint Zita, but you’ll have to pay the entry fee to see it.
Side streets of Lucca
If You Have Time
Orto Botanico*
If you love nature and biodiversity, be sure to stop in at these Botanic Gardens.
Legend has it that Orto Botanico is haunted. When a noblewoman noticed she was aging, she made a deal with the devil to maintain her beauty for an additional 30 years. On the night the deal was to end she climbed up Torre delle Ore to try and stop the clock. The devil dragged her through the city on a burning chariot and pulled her below the surface of the pond found in the gardens. Locals claim that if you look directly into the pond you will see her staring back at you and on the full moon she climbs out and wanders the grounds.
Hours change throughout the year, so be sure to check the official site for times and costs.
Free Walking Tour
Sign up for a free walking tour through Lucca’s walled old town. I love doing these when I travel; they’re a great way to see a lot and get some local insight into where to go for the best food/experiences.
What to Eat
Local Dishes
Buccellato di Lucca — a sweet bread made with raisins and anise. I’ve never liked anise so I was not a fan, but my mom enjoyed it! It’s often eaten for breakfast or as a snack.
Tordelli* — not to be confused with tortelli (d vs t), this pasta dish is meat stuffed pasta with a ragu sauce.
Garmugia* — a hearty soup full of asparagus, peas, artichokes, and fava beans.
Truffle — less specific to Lucca and more Tuscany as a whole, truffles are beloved by Italians and are often found in the region. Keep your eye out for the word tartufo to find dishes made with them.
My Favourite Bites in Lucca
Pasticceria Dianda — bakery with delicious treats.
Osteria Parlascio Lucca — located in Piazza dell’Anfiteatro, with outdoor seating. This is the spot we chose for our dinner out. Both the pesto gnocchi and truffle pasta were great. Tuscany is known for truffles and though the gnocchi was terrific too, the truffle dish was the winner.
Short on Time Short-List
This mini-route is doable in under 4 hours.
Walk the Walls
Piazza Anfiteatro
Torre Guinigi
Continue planning your Italian adventure with more of my Italy travel guides!
Yellow streets of Lucca, Italy
