The Best (and worst) of Our 2 Weeks in Ireland
In the fall of 2024, Tys and I explored Ireland’s coastline. We picked up a rental car and embarked on a drive around the country: 2 weeks, 50-some stops, about 40 hours behind the wheel. There were more moody cliffs and charming towns than I could count. I’ve narrowed it down to our absolute favourites, a few that just missed the short list, and a handful we could skip if we did it again.
If you want to read more about our journey through the Emerald Isle, check out this guide for the Ultimate Coastal Irish Roadtrip.
Without further ado, enjoy the best (and worst) of our trip!
The Best
Kerry Cliffs
Kerry Cliffs
Location: County Kerry
Price: €5/person
What we loved about it: A slightly off-the-beaten-path gem with stunning views.
The Kerry Cliffs were one of those “hidden gems” that blew us away! The cliffs aren’t sheer drops; their beauty is more savage. The three viewpoints each offer their own incredible vistas. The Cliffs of Moher get all the attention, but we heard from locals more than once that these were less known amongst tourists and arguably more impressive. They weren’t wrong.
If you’re looking for unforgettable views, for reasonable prices, the Kerry Cliffs truly can’t be beat.
Guinness Storehouse
Guinness Storehouse, St. James Gate
Location: Dublin City
Price: €22 - €350/person
What we loved about it: The properly poured pints, immersive floors, and tasty Guinness lineup.
Both Tys and I are big Guinness fans, so we splurged a little and went for the Connoisseur Experience (€95). The added tasting room was so fun. Not only did we get to pour our own pints, the proper way, but we also got to taste a few of the other beers under the Guinness label.
Even if you only get the base package, the self-guided tour through the immersive floors is so well done. One of the best I’ve ever visited. Even if you’re not a Guinness drinker, the tour is worth checking out while you’re in Dublin.
Purchase tickets in advance here.
Murderhole Beach
Murderhole Beach
Location: County Donegal
Price: €5 parking fee
What we loved about it: Quiet, otherworldly landscape and quiet low-tide access.
The landscape of this beach was so unique to the other ones we visited… and we visited a lot! It’s about a 30-minute walk from the carpark to the beach, and it’s only accessible during low tides, making this a quiet, less populated beach. The isolation only adds to its beauty.
The name is thought to be a nod to either the strong riptides here or the story of a woman who fell to her death from the cliffs in the 19th century.
Be sure to check tide times before visiting, save the swimming for another location, and respect the private land you’re crossing to get there!
Doolough Valley
Doolough Valley
Location: County Mayo
Price: FREE
What we loved about it: Stunning natural landscapes that demanded we stop and take it all in.
The raw beauty of this place left us floored. It’s a quick stop, you could easily just drive through, taking in the views as you do, but I implore you to pull over and bask in the magic of the landscape.
Sliabh Liag
Sliabh Liag
Location: County Donegal
Price: FREE parking at the Visitor’s Centre (€10-€15 parking fee at the closer Ranger’s Centre)
What we loved about it: Endless coastal views that made us want to see more.
This coastal mountain is the second-highest sea cliff in Ireland, and the views are spectacular. We felt fully immersed in the scenery that stretched endlessly along the coast. If we had had more time, I would have loved to continue hiking further along the ridge.
Honourable Mentions
Downpatrick Head
Downpatrick Head
Location: County Mayo
Price: FREE
What we loved about it: Relentless waves and vivid colours.
Rich in views and legends, Downpatrick Head has a magic entirely its own. The verdant cliffs, the prominent seastack, and the electric-blue waters below paint a vivid landscape. Watching the waves crash into the cliffs with relentless power was captivating.
Malin Head
Malin Head
Location: County Donegal
Price: FREE
What we loved about it: Edge of the world vibes.
Standing at the furthest point of a landmass has this ability to make me feel pensive — like my own version of religion. Perched on the edge of the world, with wild winds raging and the water crashing far below, it just leaves me in awe of the natural beauty around me. Malin Head, mainland Ireland’s northernmost point, had this exact effect.
A sheep in the Gap of Dunloe
Gap of Dunloe
Location: County Kerry
Price: FREE
What we loved about it: Beauty as far as we could see.
Tucked into a mountain pass as breathtaking as the Gap of Dunloe is a pretty noteworthy experience, one that felt filled with quiet magic. Strolling along a winding road in the midst of colourfully marked sheep and towering mountains is a lovely way to spend an afternoon.
Starting at Kate Kearney’s Cottage, where you can park for free, we walked into the pass toward the second wishing bridge, passing the first one and Auger Lake along the way.
Giant’s Causeway
Giant’s Causeway (Northern Ireland)
Location: Northern Ireland
Price: £10 parking (can be used towards coffee or tea at the hotel)
What we loved about it: Early-morning solitude in a unique landscape.
This was one of the most memorable experiences I’ve ever had. We showed up bright and early, and were rewarded with the landscape entirely to ourselves: 40,000 interlocked basalt columns, waves crashing, birds flying overhead. A solid 10/10!
You can park at the “official” carpark, where you will have to pay a per-person parking fee, which grants you access to the Visitor’s Centre. But seeing as the Causeway itself is free for public access, I recommend saving a few pounds, parking at The Causeway Hotel, and putting parking fee toward a hot beverage at the hotel when you return!
I would have ranked this #1, but being located in Northern Ireland, it felt wrong to include it in a list of “The Best of Ireland”… so an honourable mention it is!
The Misses
Our “view” of the Cliffs of Moher
Cliffs of Moher
Location: County Clare
Price: € 15/per person parking fee (grants access to the Visitor’s Centre)
What made it a miss: The lack of transparency about the lack of transparency.
Based on the visibility conditions at the parking lot, we were expecting some misty views of the cliffs — half of the magic of Ireland is the moody weather, so that was fine by us. But when we walked the short distance to the cliffside, there was a thick wall of fog. My gripe is with the lack of transparency about current conditions. Weather is weather, but this left us feeling a little cheated.
Exterior of Kylemore Abbey
Kylemore Abbey
Location: County Galway
Price: € 18/person
What made it a miss: Price vs. lack of experience ratio.
We read some rave reviews before visiting, so maybe our expectations were too high. Maybe it was because we were visiting in shoulder season, but the museum and gardens really left us wanting. After our visit, we both agreed that the most impressive part was the view of it from the main road. Price: free.
Assaranca Waterfall
Assaranca Waterfall
Location: County Donegal
Price: FREE
What made it a miss: Lacked magic.
Objectively beautiful, but being located right on the edge of the road, the surrounding landscape was lacking, which dampened the magic. It felt more like checking a box than making a memory.
