Irish Roadtrip pt. 4 | County Clare & County Galway
Part four of my Ultimate Coastal Irish Roadtrip ventures through County Clare and County Galway, two regions that are home to some of Ireland’s most iconic stops. This stretch of our route includes rugged coastal landscapes, scenic walks, and some time for a couple of cheeky pints in Galway!
The Candle Stick & Killkee Cliffside
Drive time Dunquin Pier to Candle Stick: 3 hours
Approximate time there: 1.5 hours
Two stops that show off what Ireland does best: coastal cliff views. And the best part? They’re both absolutely free!
Head to the Candle Stick first, and walk through the grass over toward the cliffs. Be cautious, as there is no safety barrier, and the natural erosion process can cause instability, so keep a safe distance. At sunset, the sun can appear right above the seastack, giving the illusion of a flame atop a candlestick.
A short drive away from the Candle Stick you will find the Killkee Cliffside. There’s a proper carpark here, where you can pull off to enjoy the views. If you want to go on a walk along the gorgeous cliffs, check out the Cliff Walk Killkee.
Cliffs of Moher
Drive time Killkee to Cliffs of Moher: 1 hour
Approximate time there: 1-2 hours
I’m going to start by saying this: we went in the shoulder season, on a slightly overcast day.
I am going to continue by saying this: we had just visited the Killkee Cliffside, where the cloud coverage on the road was considerably worse than what it was upon arriving at the Cliffs of Moher. With this in mind, we decided to pay the (€ 15/per person) “parking” fee, knowing that misty views are half — if not more — of what makes Ireland so beautiful. We were extremely disappointed after walking the short distance from the carpark to the cliff edge, where there was zero visibility.
My bone to pick is with the lack of transparency (pun intended) around the current conditions of the site. Weather is weather, and it’s going to happen, but I’d be lying if I said that this didn’t leave us feeling a little cheated.
Note that the “parking” fee grants you access to the Visitor’s Centre (thus the per-person cost) but the cliffs themselves are free. If you have the time, consider walking from somewhere with cheaper parking and access the views free of charge instead.
And I will end by saying this: if you plan to pay for cliffs, consider the Kerry Cliffs in the Ring of Kerry. We found the views incredible, and the prices more fair. We also heard from locals more than once that they felt the same.
Galway
Drive time Cliffs of Moher to Galway: 1.5 hours
Approximate time there: 2-3 hours (stay the night)
Walking through the Latin Quarter, shopping for a claddagh ring, or taking in the sunset from Nimmo’s Pier; whatever you choose to do, Galway’s charm is everywhere. If you’re looking for a great night out, look no further. Name a better place to stay for a night while indulging in a casual Guinness Pub Crawl. I’ll wait.
Ireland has strict drinking-and-driving laws, so if you want to have a couple of pints, stay the night and enjoy a night of live music and good vibes!
Diamond Hill
Drive time Galway to Diamond Hill: 1.75 hours
Approximate time there: 2-3 hours
A short drive from Galway is Connemara National Park. If you’re itching for a hike, consider Diamond Hill. Even on a rainy and overcast day, I enjoyed the challenge of the moderate difficulty loop to get the legs moving.
Cleggan Cliffs
Drive time Diamond Hill to Cleggan Cliffs: 20 minutes
Approximate time there: 45 minutes
A beautiful and free stop. If you visit, either make sure you have a high-clearance car, or be prepared to walk. If it’s been raining recently — and it’s Ireland, so the odds are high — you will likely be walking through some swampy, muddy puddles. Though once you arrive at the view, it’s all worth it!
Kylemore Abbey
Drive time Cleggan Cliffs to Kylemore Abbey: 30 minutes
Approximate time there: 1.5 hours
I’ve read rave reviews about Kylemore Abbey, and perhaps if we had visited in the peak season, we would have agreed, but, if I’m being honest, this was one of the biggest misses for us on our trip through Ireland and the UK. Whether it be the barren gardens or the museum that was lacking that “je ne sais quoi”, we were left wanting more for the price of admission. From the roadside, the prominent old, white building looks majestic, perched on the edge of the lake, but through the gate, there was just something missing for us.
For a similar experience (think: old castley vibes and beautifully landscaped gardens) that hits the mark, even in the shoulder season, consider Dubrobin Castle if you find yourself in the Scottish Highlands on this or a future trip.